2009 Paris Maymester

Louvre Museum

2009-05-25T23:55:00.006+02:00

We spent most of the day at the Louvre. Students had a choice of taking a "greatest hits of nineteenth-century French painting" tour or striking out on their own.

We met at noontime for lunch. We had planned to dine at a cafe inside the museum, but the line was long and the servers would only seat us two at a time as tables in a certain section became available. Instead we headed to the Paul sandwich cart near the Arc du Carrousel, at the beginning of the Tuileries Gardens.

In the early afternoon we had an appointment with Carel van Tuyll van Serooskerken, the Louvre's curator of prints and drawings. He oversees a collection of more than 150,000 images, and he is also the first non-French department head ever hired by the museum.

Dr. van Tuyll devoted an hour of his time to show us a number of drawings. Following the nineteenth-century theme, he focused mainly on David, Delacroix, and Géricault. He discussed the growing scholarly emphasis on drawings as a way to study an artist's thought processes. He also showed us some watercolors from the period around 1820, when French artists "discovered" the English watercolor tradition.

It was a fascinating presentation. Unfortunately photos aren't permitted in that part of the museum. The department's study room is a huge chamber, intended by Napoleon III to be part of a grand staircase for receiving visitors. The walls and ceiling are decorated with relief sculptures and beautiful paintings. An accurate description for this room's decoration would be "over the top." It was quite a contrast from the rest of the museum, with thousands of visitors milling around.

The students had the rest of the afternoon to explore the museum on their own. Once again it was hot and sunny today.

This evening we gathered for a farewell dinner. The food was great, and we followed that with a visit to the top of Montparnasse Tower. From 209 meters above ground, you can see for many miles. We waited for the Eiffel Tower to sparkle at 11:00 p.m. before heading back to the hotel.

Overall the trip has been a big success. Everyone seems reluctant to leave Paris!

Montmartre

2009-05-25T08:07:00.006+02:00

Sunday was HOT in Paris! It was at least 80-82 degrees (F), approx. 30C. That may not sound very hot, but to us it felt like August weather.

We explored Montmartre, beginning with the long ascent to the Sacré-Coeur Basilica. We had planned to take the funicular to the top, but everyone wanted to walk.

The students had time to explore the basilica, then we walked through the throngs of tourists to the Place du Tertre. Frankly, this is my least favorite spot in Paris because it's always packed with visitors and vendors. I enjoyed finding a plaque announcing that 21-year-old Louis Renault piloted his single-cylinder "Voiturette" to the summit of Montmartre on Christmas Eve, 1898. This was the first ascent of Montmartre by automobile.

We continued to the Musée Montmartre. Away from the madding crowds in the surrounding streets, this small museum presents historical exhibits, mainly from the nineteenth century.

Later we walked down the hill, pausing at the Moulin de la Galette (which was the last working windmill on Montmartre) and other landmarks. We paused for lunch and ice cream, then ended our tour at the Moulin Rouge.

Most of the students headed off to visit various museums. Marta and I went to the basilica of St. Denis, a few miles north of Montmartre. Most of the French kings are buried there -- or were until the Revolution, when their bones were disinterred and transferred to a common grave outside the church to "purge it of the royal race." Later some of the bones were transferred back into the church. The fascinating tombs, many with elaborate marble sculptures, remain.

Our final day (Monday) features a long visit to the Louvre, then a group dinner.

Saturday: Musée Marmottan and Guimard architecture

2009-05-24T18:57:00.006+02:00

Saturday's main activity was a visit to the Musée Marmottan Monet in the suburb of Passy. So why are there pictures of food and chocolate and donkeys, but no Monets? Unfortunately the museum doesn't allow any photographs.

Passy is a very upscale part of the city, known as a stronghold of the bourgeoisie. Beautiful, well-kept apartment houses feature upscale boutiques, maternity shops, and pastry shops at ground level. Many "in-town" Parisians consider Passy too boring to visit.

We went to a large cafe in the Place du Passy. Several students said that our lunch there was the best meal of the trip so far. The food was superb.

We continued to the Regis chocolate shop, where everything is made on the premises except the ice cream. The students each made a chocolate selection to enjoy while we walked to the museum.

A pleasant stroll through gardens and parkland led us to the museum. The Marmottan has dozens of Monet's canvases, especially from his later years. Some people consider it the finest Monet collection anywhere. We explored the museum, then everyone had the option of going elsewhere or taking an Art Nouveau architectural tour.

Those who stayed for the tour had a treat. We went in search of apartment buildings designed by Hector Guimard, who is most famous for his Paris Métro station entrances. We found several buildings, including a spectacular apartment block that's pictured below. The details on the building's exterior are amazing, from stained glass to fanciful ironwork.

Musée d'Orsay

2009-05-24T18:41:00.003+02:00

Friday's schedule was built around a visit to the Musée d'Orsay. Depending on one's interests, this is potentially the best museum visit in Paris. I say that because it is packed with wonderful art from the mid-nineteenth century until 1914. There are so many famous paintings and painters -- an embarrassment of riches.

We did a structured visit to certain paintings, then had time to wander the permanent and temporary exhibitions. After a group lunch in the cafe, the group dispersed to various museums across the city.

You will see from the photos that gorgeous weather had taken over, making us forget the relatively cold and wet conditions during the first few days we were in Paris.

La Madeleine and the Opéra Garnier

2009-05-21T09:54:00.017+02:00

On Wednesday we began at the Madeleine (church of Mary Magdalene). We discussed the unusual architecture and history of the church, and had some time to explore. We also stopped briefly at the Maille mustard boutique. Yes, a shop that sells only mustard.

We continued with a walking tour along the bd des Capucines, stopping at the building where the first Impressionist art exhibition was held. This was across the street from the Scribe Hotel, where the first public moving-picture performance was held by the Lumière Brothers.

We then visited one of the passages that are common to see on the Right Bank. These covered corridors were constructed as pedestrian shopping avenues to escape the noisy, smelly streets in the mid-nineteenth century. They were a particular feature of the city's reconstruction by Baron Haussmann.

The highlight of our morning was a guided tour of the Opéra Garnier, one of the most magnificent buildings in Paris. You will see a number of photos below, which barely do justice to the opulence of the place.

Several students returned in the evening for a ballet performance (Eugene Onegin, I believe). They bought EUR 6 tickets which placed them in an upper booth without a direct sight line to the stage. But by standing, they could see about 75% of the action. The opera house was designed for watching other spectators, not the stage!

The afternoon was free. Students rushed off to shop and visit museums. This is definitely a museum-going crowd.

Today (Thursday) is the Pentecost holiday, and also a free day for the students to do as they wish. Most offices and many small shops are closed, but almost all the museums are open. Most large stores are open as well. The students have dispersed all over the city. One even left town to see the Art Nouveau architecture in Nancy. It's 240 miles from here, but only 90 minutes by TGV train!

Père Lachaise, Arc de Triomphe, river cruise

2009-05-20T08:01:00.005+02:00

I'm sorry that I don't have any photos available from Monday's excursion to Père Lachaise cemetery and the Buttes Chaumont park.

On Tuesday we went first to the Arc de Triomphe. Most people don't know that you can climb to the top for a magnificent view of the city. After 300-something steps, the rooftop terrace is a welcome sight. Streets converge from all directions, giving vistas in all directions. Of course the views of the Champs-Élysées and the Eiffel Tower are among the most interesting.

We then walked the full length of the famous avenue, pausing at a Paul sandwich shop to buy sandwiches for a picnic. The Parc Marigny was a perfect place to eat and rest our weary legs before resuming the walk.

We stopped in the Place de la Concorde for a brief presentation on the Obelisk of Luxor, after which we walked the length of the Tuileries Gardens. After learning about the Arc du Caroussel, we walked to Place Vendôme, the richest square in Paris. We then walked through pleasant streets to the Bâteaux Mouches pier.

It started to rain just as we boarded the boat, but after a couple of minutes the rain stopped and the skies cleared. We had beautiful sunshine for the duration of the cruise.

Today we will tour the Opéra Garnier. Tomorrow is our free day, and everyone is making their plans. So many things to see and do....

The Marais and les Halles

2009-05-18T13:03:00.005+02:00

Because the computer's battery is failing, I will be brief and let the pictures do the talking. On Sunday we took a walking tour that included a visit to the National Archives (headquartered in a historic mansion), the Marais district, and les Halles (the city's former food market). We saw the Fountain of the Innocents, the city's oldest; and the Pompidou Center nearby.

At the archives, a little girl had a birthday party. All the kids got to dress as princesses and princes, and they got a special tour led by a storyteller.

Along the way we enjoyed a carousel ride at City Hall and had the best falafel you can get in Paris. We ended our tour at Berthillon, a famous ice cream shop.

The clouds finally lifted at 6:00 p.m. and we had a glorious evening, to be followed by a beautiful day on Monday.

Versailles

2009-05-17T10:39:00.005+02:00

Yesterday we spent the day at Versailles. Direct trains run from Montparnasse station (down the street from our hotel) to Versailles in only 12 minutes. After a quick journey, we were at the gates of the château by 9:00 a.m. Everyone in our group had a "Versailles Passport" permitting unlimited access to the grounds.

Weekends are special at Versailles because many of the fountains are activated, along with piped-in classical music. Our day would have been more fun if the weather had been more cooperative -- cool and windy was the order of the day, with occasional rain sprinkles -- but the conditions remained tolerable. We saw the sun a few times around lunchtime.

With audioguides in hand, the students explored the château at their own pace. Most of us visited a special exhibition on European court dress from 1650-1800. Among other items were the coronation robe of England's George III and many chivalric uniforms and ladies' gowns.

Later we met for a group photo and a walk through the gardens to the base of the Grand Canal. After a sandwich lunch, everyone was free to explore the huge grounds on their own. We had one intrepid biker (Megan), while others elected to walk to the Grand Trianon and Petit Trianon. Everyone knew how to return to the train station, and with tickets in hand they dispersed.

Saturday was the 5th International Museum Night, so most of the museums in Paris were open until midnight or later. Some students planned to visit the Centre Pompidou. Others went to the Decorative Arts Museum inside the Louvre complex. The streets of central Paris were packed with museum-goers. After midnight the Métro trains were packed as well. Light rain didn't deter the locals from enjoying this special evening.

First non-jet-lag day

2009-05-16T00:02:00.008+02:00

After a good dinner on our first night in Paris, about half the group visited a Monoprix (similar to Wal-Mart) not far from our hotel. They wanted to wander and look at the many pastries on offer.

It must be said that Monoprix isn't the best place to get pastries, but their selection is surprisingly varied. The quality is decent enough. The students know that there are better and more traditional pastry shops and bakeries all over town. All in due time. We're impressed that we have so many adventurous diners. Today someone ordered an escargot appetizer, and several have had classic French dishes like duck breast. The vegetarians are surviving too.

Today started out cold and a little wet, but it cleared up. We saw some sun this afternoon and early evening. Temperatures remained cool but not cold.

This morning everyone paired up for a Metro orientation tour. Each team visited a different landmark such as the Arc de Triomphe or the Place de la Concorde. The goal was to learn how to plan a Metro journey and how to enter the stations and find the correct platforms. Everybody performed the task on time and met us in the heart of the city. Our meeting point was the Île de la Cité, near the Notre-Dame Cathedral.

We walked to the Notre-Dame, but before entering the building we found a pleasant surprise: the Fête du Pain (bread festival). Sponsored by the bakers and pastry makers of Paris and the surrounding region, the festival was fun. Groups of school children did hands-on demonstrations of bread-making. Professional steam ovens produced fresh loaves, filling the main tent with a wonderful smell. Vendors in smaller tents sold samples of their wares. Anyone for nutella on a fresh baguette?

Afterward we did a self-guided visit of the Notre-Dame for about a half-hour, then walked through its gardens. We eventually made a stop at the famous Shakespeare & Co. bookstore, then had a hearty lunch at a traditional restaurant (in business since 1902, housed in a building several centuries older than that).

Speaking of food, our hotel has a superb breakfast buffet featuring pastries, eggs, sausage, pancakes, cereal, juices, etc. We will include a photo or two in a later blog entry.

We had planned to take a river cruise and ascend the Eiffel Tower this afternoon, but we changed plans and had a free afternoon instead. About half the group visited the AndyWarhol show at the Grand Palais (raving afterward about it).

Everyone dispersed with their newfound confidence in the Metro system, and this evening we saw a number of students in the lobby. Everyone had interesting stories to tell. Our hotel is surrounded by little restaurants and shops. Versailles is tomorrow....

Internet problems

2009-05-15T08:41:00.003+02:00

Yesterday I couldn't do a blog entry -- not even at the nearby shopping mall that has free wi-fi! Every wi-fi signal was weak.

Anyway, we're all here and we're all doing well so far. We just finished a wonderful breakfast. It would take too long to list everything, but they have a huge selection from pancakes to eggs to a half-dozen kinds of pastry. And yes, they have buttery croissants and pain au chocolat.

It rained some yesterday. After a light drizzle upon arrival, it cleared up somewhat. The heavens didn't really open until we left the crêperie where we ate dinner.

Gotta run -- people to meet and places to see!